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Whole-wheat pasta redeemed

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No matter how unimpeachable whole-wheat pasta is in terms of nutritional cred, I've always found it off-putting. Sure, it has more fiber and whole-grain nutrition, but it always struck me as rather spineless and dull. As someone whose culinary credo is that food can be scrumptious and healthy, I wasn’t about to eat whole-wheat pasta for its nutritional benefits alone. Happily, several brands recently have developed very respectable lines of 100 percent whole-wheat pasta. To ramp up the flavor of the finished dish, undercook the pasta and finish cooking it in the sauce. This produces a more flavorful dish than the more traditional method — cooking the sauce and pasta separately, then...

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