Baked potatoes are one of those wondrous foods that can bring glory to home cooks everywhere. Roast one plain in a hot oven and the skin becomes crusty, the steamy flesh inside tender, with a rich, mineral tang that hints of earth. The dish needs nothing else except perhaps a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. It’s the perfect accompaniment to grilled fish or steak, a roasted chicken or lamb chops. On the other hand, a baked potato’s very simplicity makes it the perfect candidate for creative treatments. Stuffed potatoes (some call them “twice baked”) are among the more delicious treasures to explore. They’re versatile, too, making them useful...
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